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Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Finished: 1970s impulse sewing knit dress (Simplicity 7575)

Simplicity 7575 Vintage Knit Dress (1976)

So a few nights ago I was on Instagram scrolling through Me-Made-May pix and I saw that really awesome feather-print 70s vintage dress by Cation Designs and then she was saying that Tanit-Isis got her hooked on 1970s dresses and then I was thinking "hey, I have a kinda similar 1970s vintage dress pattern in my stash" and so then I found it and I grabbed some stash fabric and I cut it and I made it and... here it is.

AND it fits! So score. VINTAGE IMPULSE SEWING WIN.

The basics

Pattern: Vintage Simplicity 7575, from 1976, a topstitched raglan-sleeved V-neck knit dress with slightly gathered skirt and attached belt to create underbust shaping. I got my copy from We Sew Retro, but looks like you can still find it on eBay or Etsy pretty easily.

Fabric: Two yards of a wonderful soft medium-weight purple rayon or cotton spandex blend knit with amazing stretch, drape and recovery (and maybe a BIT too much cling). It's been in my stash since before 2010 and my notes say I bought it at "NY Fabrics" but I can't remember where or what that store is in the Garment District.

Notions: Just thread and some fusible webbing tape for taming the belt and facings.

Size: 12 (it's a one-size pattern). The body measurements for this size were about 3-4 inches smaller than mine, but I trusted the power of spandex and negative ease, and made no adjustments except a 1" FBA. The dress actually has quite a bit of ease, as it's the belt that gives it a fitted look.

Inspiration: This dress totally makes me think of my amazing mom Beryl, who was a total 70s girl and loves to sew knit dresses. Here she is with my dad and her parents (both in ensembles sewn by my grandmother) at her wedding in 1973:

It also reminded me of the last vintage 1970s pattern I sewed back when I was super pregnant, which also had a similar attached belt thing going on:

Vintage McCalls 5921 sketch to final...

Here's the full envelope art—there are also a tunic and pants pattern included:

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Instructions: The instructions were easy to follow, but I have mixed feelings about some of the techniques and construction. I'm not sure a neckline facing is really the best thing for this V-neck—a binding might give a softer effect. And the belt is a SINGLE layer of jersey—which makes it easy to tie, but it's rather flimsy and floppy and there are raw edges visible:

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Alterations: Just a 1" FBA, as I thought 5" of negative ease across the bust might be a bit much. Because I hadn't done any raglan FBAs before, I pulled out my copy of Fit For Real People for a little refresher (what would I do without that book?!):

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I decided to gather the excess fabric into the side seam instead of creating a dart, and it's a bit bunchy but I'm cool with it:

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Construction notes: When my mom was sewing in the 1970s, she didn't have a serger or use a twin needle—it was zig-zag all the way. And in that spirit, I used a narrow zig-zag for all the seams with no seam finishing:

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I did most of the top-stitching on the more stable areas with a long straight stitch, but I used a zig-zag again in the stretchier places to prevent seam popping:

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And I haven't hemmed it yet. I'm going to let her hang out for a while before I decide if I want to bother.

Yes, I know that's not very modern or ready-to-wear looking... but honestly, I hardly aspire for my garments to have any resemblance to mass-produced fast fashion, and if the zigzag or raw hem is a giveaway that I made it myself—that's just fine with me.

I'm also trying to remove all the barriers—big and little, mental and physical—that have held back my sewing mojo... and proper seam finishes and having to dig out the serger and set it up and thread it are more trouble than they are worth to me at this moment.

Successes: The entire project took just three nights, including the cutting and tracing and altering. And I got lots of compliments at work (especially from sewing and knitting friends). I just LOVE this color and this fabric and the dress is comfy as a nightgown.

Will I make it again? Oh goodness yes, though next time I think I'll make it in a print, like a 70s-style ITY jersey. I love this bright solid but I already have a greasy eczema lotion handprint on the dress bodice from my little girl that I am trying to remove before it sets in. SIGH.

Here's a shot showing how unfitted/bunchy the back is, but that's what makes it comfy:

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Wear to: Work or a date with the husband. This fabric is just a little too nice to risk further damage at the playground.

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Oh, and the slingback pumps are the Miz Mooz Avery—they were the most 70s-looking closed-toed shoes I could find in my closet (no longer available, but these slingbacks have a similar vibe).

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25 comments:

  1. I love this dress--the color and the style both look great on you. I don't have a serger and have been sewing knits a lot so I say rock on with your zigzag stitch!

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    1. Thank you! Long live the zig zag! (Though theoretically you could even sew knits with a straight stitch according to my "Stretch & Sew" books, but I'm not going there at this time).

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  2. You look great! Love the dress on you.

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  3. It's lovely. Looks really modern for a 70s pattern. I have a similar one in the stash with shirring instead of darts! The new colette books shows a knit fba which just adds to the side seams at apex level, no slashing needed!

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    1. Oooh, I really want that Colette book! I have done "cheater" FBAs where I just add to the side seams but I always feel nervous about it, since I need more length over the bust as well. I think it looks modern because 70s-style dresses like the DVF ones have become such an enduring fashion classic.

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  4. This is gorgeous! Two things: I love the point about removing barriers that keep you from sewing. I have a serger, but it feels too fast to control, so I avoid it. Maybe zigzag stitch is the answer for me too. Also, Miz Mooz are my faves. :)

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    1. Miz Mooz are awesome. It's not that my serger doesn't do a great job but it is old and finicky and always requires a ton of threading and rethreading before it cooperates and there's just no room to keep it out. I do use for some things but right now I just need to SEW.

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  5. What a fabulous color, and the dress style looks smashing on you!! Also, your hair is fantastic :)

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    1. Aw, thank you! I needed a spring haircut badly and it makes me happy.

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  6. Oooh, I love this!!! What a fabulous dress!! The colour is fantastic on you :)

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  7. I LOVE THIS!! must find pattern! i have a vintage dress from the 70s that has similar lines and I've been wanting to replicate it.

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    1. I saw three or four copies out there on eBay and Etsy in sizes 12 or 14 or 16—some for as little as $2.50. I can't remember what I paid but so worth it.

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  8. Gorgeous dress! It looks fantastic on you. I love the style. Kudos to you for enjoying the process and not getting tied up in the things that diminish the fun for you.

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  9. Gorgeous dress, amazing color! Sewing everything on one old machine, and on the dining table to boot, I totally understand about removing barriers. Great work!

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    1. The other barrier I removed was removing the sewing machine from my apartment living room where it might keep my daughter awake and putting it in the bedroom where she can't hear it—AND I can watch shows or movies with the husband while sewing.

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  10. Really like this dress! Looks so comfy and easy to wear. I might have to try it, but is it fairly easy?

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  11. LOOOOVE this!! Seriously, it looks so good on you! Definitely a sewing win :D

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  12. I love this! I have become a big fan of 1970s patterns recently, you get some lovely details like the waist and tie on this dress. It looks great on you, you should definitely make more!

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  13. Yaaay this turned out so well! Impulse sewing ftw! That waist detail/tie belt is so interesting, too. I need to work on removing my barriers, too. Sewing has ground to a halt since the school year got crazy!

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  14. what an awesome pattern! it's so cute on you too. I should try more vintage sewing.

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  15. This silhouette and color looks AMAZING on you. Super good. It looks super comfy as well. Lovely.

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  16. This is such a nice vintage dress. I lean toward a narrow zigzag stitch when sewing my knits as well.

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  17. This is gorgeous, really. Beautiful sewing and I think it's a beautiful style on you. :)

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  18. Very pretty love the color and the fit

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  19. Love it! The color is fantastic. I'm a big fan of 70's dresses, too.

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