So my oldest unfinished sewing object is finally finished... and I can't decide if I totally hate it or find it mildly acceptable.
I mean, there are a few pros here: it has raglan sleeves, it's an adjustable wrap style, and it's made from a stretchy (but not too stretchy) chartreuse RPL doubleknit. Plus: a peplum!
But... there is a big con here, and that is the poor fit. It's just way too huge all over—in the sleeves, the shoulders, the body, the front. Even when I wrap it as carefully as I can, it feels more "ill-fitting bathrobe" than "casual, yet chic jacket" to me.
This could be because I muslined and cut it out when I was seven months hugely pregnant back in 2010. I thought it might still work now because it is a wrap and a knit, but... I think it's also the pattern. The examples on the envelope look equally large and rather baggy and wrinkly in the sleeves—it should have been a warning sign that the model has her sleeves scrunched up:
The basics
Pattern: McCall's 5529, a self-belted unlined raglan-sleeved cardigan/jacket with peplum, designed for wovens or stable knits. I believe it's out of print in the envelope edition, but I bought it as a download from SewingPatterns.com and tediously taped it all together. I made View C, with self-fabric belt and smooth non-gathered peplum. But I don't think I really recommend this pattern. The collar doesn't seem to know what it wants to do, the belt is rather "meh", and the peplum could be more fun, but isn't.
Fabric: Chartreuse Sophia doubleknit rayon/poly/lycra from Fabric.com (similar here on sale for $8.99/yard). It's a great fabric... BUT I think this would have worked better in a softer knit—like a sweater knit or stretchy French terry.
Size: According to my old notes I made a size 14, did a 2" FBA (adding four inches across the bust total), shortened the body by about four inches to hit my short waist... and added quite a bit of width to the front to accommodate my then-huge pregnant belly. I also took in the too-baggy sleeves by an INCH each but apparently that was not enough.
Instructions: Just fine—nothing exciting.
Construction notes: Back in 2010 I had originally been making this on the serger. When I picked up this UFO a few weeks ago the body and sleeves were together and all that remained to be done was attach the peplum and collar and sew up the belt. I finished it on my machine with a narrow zig-zag stitch.
I did the topstitching and hems with a regular long straight stitch since this doubleknit is so stable.
I slipstitched the inside of the collar by hand and it took me AGES—I ended up carrying it with me to playground excursions and such. A lot of work for such a mediocre result!
Wear: As lackluster as I feel about this make I do still think I will wear it, mainly to work. It's warm and cozy and I got quite a few compliments on it when I wore it to work Friday—mainly due to the color, I think. Chartreuse is kind of my thing, to say the least.
I have a theory that scrunching up the sleeves might help—thoughts?
Successes: My first jacket! OK, so it's an unlined unfitted knit belted wrap jacket--a glorified girly sweatshirt. But still--my first jacket!
Room for improvement?: The FIT! Next time I make a raglan-sleeve top, I want to see if I can make the armhole more comfortable, perhaps by adding a gusset.
I suppose I COULD take it apart and alter it to fit better... but I'm just DONE with this project. Whatever. At least the unfinished object pile is TOTALLY EMPTY. For now, anyway... I doubt I will ever make this pattern again and I can't say I recommend it.
My next knit jacket project bodes much better for success, as I KNOW the style is just perfect for me—the Cake Patterns Carmine Jacket (which I drew the cover flats for, naturally):
Posts
Ahhhh, the perils of too much ease! I think it does work (with the sleeve crunch up option) mainly because the colour on you is divine.
ReplyDeleteI think that's why I still go compliments—I just LOVE chartreuse!
DeleteHa.. if I lived close by I would lie and tell you it looks terrible and then come and take it off you! But that colour is sensational on you and I think it looks relaxed and comfortable (love it with that polka dot skirt).
ReplyDeleteha! that is very sneaky. I swear I would wear this skirt every day if I could get away with it (wearing it right now, actually).
DeleteI actually really like it! The colour is lovely and even though it isn't perfectly 'fitted' on you, I quite like a more relaxed looser look of fit this season. Looks lovely with those polka dots. On another note, I too have been fooled by those cover shots enough now that I look very closely at scrunched arms or looser fitting arms to now know that this is likely to reflect my finished outfit too. Well maybe not fooled, but I used to see what I wanted to see and now I try to study them a little more objectively.
ReplyDeleteI have also become very suspicious of anything belted! You never know what they are trying to hide...
DeleteI think you fitted it successfully--you're just not used to that much wearing ease. Looking at the pattern envelope examples, it fits those models quite loosely. I also notice that they either have massive shoulders or, more likely, are wearing the jacket with shoulder pads. Not huge, 1980's shoulder pads, but more ordinary, 3/4 inch shoulder pads. Personally, I put 1 inch shoulder pads in all my jackets, and some of my cardigans. Nobody recognizes them, and they make everything fit better.
ReplyDeleteI agree that it looks good on you, especially with that skirt!
I have heard that about shoulder pads. I think you're right that this is how it is SUPPOSED to fit and I was just envisioning something totally different.
DeleteI think it's a go - sure it's a bit big but the style and colour are great for you. I say, keep it for a bit and if you never wear it, give it away. I'll be interested to see how that Carmine shrug works on you. In truth, I have seen very few versions and the ones I have seen are unflattering. The drafting creates a back panel that seems endlessly wide in a way that (at least in the versions I've seen, adds weight). Just a word of warning.
ReplyDeleteWell, I've already worn it twice so apparently I LIKE wearing bathrobes. What do you mean about endlessly wide back panel? The versions I saw were quite fitted but I haven't seen many. I'm going to muslin it first, but I am fairly confident it will work.
DeleteLike everyone else, I love the colour! I wonder: would it be possible to take in the side seam and raise the armscye in one L-shaped seam? Might make it fit more snuggly and give you the look you want. And if it's a bit mess, well, no one looks at your armpit anyway! ;P
ReplyDeleteWell, I COULD but feeling like I want to move on at the moment. We'll see for next time I wear it.
DeleteHm, I admit that once you said "bathrobe" it was hard to unsee it, but I love the side view and the color! It might be that perfect cover-up to keep at a chilly office.
ReplyDeleteTotally!
DeleteI agree with Kelly D--and being able to rock chartreuse is no small thing. It could also serve as chic at-home "loungewear." I'll be interested to see your Carmine jacket....I've been ogling that pattern for months.
ReplyDeleteI think I'm going to make a bright red or blue Carmine!
DeleteI think it's not bad - scrunched sleeves are in! McCall's cardigan patterns always have way too much ease... I made one that ended up a bathrobe as well.
ReplyDeleteI think the problem here is compounded by it being for a knit OR a woven—I should have sized down even more. Nowadays I usually measure a flat pattern to see how much ease there is, but back then I trusted patterns more. Silly Mikhaela!
DeleteI totally get where you are coming from, but it doesn't look bathrobe-y at all. As others said, it's a great color on you and the fit looks deliberately slouchy. I would keep it for those days that I want to dress up jeans a bit or have a casual jacket for a work ensemble.
ReplyDeleteYes, and it's totally good for work. Anyway, at least I finally made a jacket! Maybe someday I'll even make an ACTUAL tailored jacket. (Well, unlikely, but you never know).
DeleteI think it's cute! And I bet you will wear the heck out of it during the winter. The color is great - a few months of rotating it and you will forget all about its flaws. It may not be the item you are most proud of (gosh, I have a lot of items I am not most proud of), but this is perfectly wearable - even cute! I'm shivering in my over air conditioned office right and it looks like just the thing.
ReplyDelete